M.C. Lilley & Company color postcard, c.1910. Courtesy of Columbus Metropolitan Library
By Marlise Schoeny, History Curator
Following the Civil War, Ohio became one of the leading manufacturers of uniforms and fraternal regalia in the United States. Five major companies were founded in Ohio, three of which were in Cincinnati, one in Columbus and one in London, Ohio. The oldest is Fechheimer Brother Company, founded in 1842. Fechheimer produced uniforms during the Civil War, and their business is still in operation today. The two largest manufacturers of fraternal regalia and organizational uniforms were Pettibone Brothers in Cincinnati, Ohio and the M.C. Lilley & Company in Columbus, Ohio. The Ohio History Connection has numerous artifacts and archival materials from both companies.
M.C. Lilley & Company was founded by four Civil War veterans living in Columbus, Ohio. They were Mitchell Campbell Lilley, John Siebert, Charles Lindenbergh and Henry Lindenbergh. All four men were members of the Odd Fellows and worked together to produce a newsletter for the organization. It was through this publication that they began to receive numerous requests for regalia, which inspired them to start a company to produce these items. From 1865 to 1881 the name was the “M. C. Lilley & Co.”. In 1882 after the death of Mitchell Lilley the name changed to “The M. C. Lilley & Co.” and remained such until 1925 when it was shortened to “The Lilley Co.”By 1870, the company occupied an entire four-story building on S. High Street, with a glass-fronted showroom and retail store on the first floor.
Book engraving of M.C. Lilley & Company building, c. 1873. Courtesy of Columbus Metropolitan Library.
1870-1910 was known as the “Golden Age of Fraternalism,” and companies like Lilley and others, were well positioned to serve this growing market. Many of these societies’ uniforms were military in style, likely a nod to the militias they largely replaced following the Civil War. M.C. Lilley not only produced the uniforms, but the accessories that accompanied it. This included, hats, buttons, buckles, swords, epaulets, gloves, etc. The company grew quickly and was soon one of the largest companies in Columbus. The 1887 Report of the State Inspector of Workshops and Factories listed The M.C. Lilley & Co. as the second largest employer in Columbus with 420 employees.
Fraternal regalia was only one variety of the uniforms Lilley produced, however. They also created uniforms for telegraph operators, railway workers, firemen, policemen and government officials. One such uniform is the frock coat of Henry Clay Taylor, the Judge Advocate General for Ohio from 1900-1904.
Henry Clay Taylor was born in what is now Reynoldsburg, Ohio, in 1844 to David Taylor and Margaret Livingston. David Taylor was a prominent and successful farmer who settled in Franklin County in 1816. Henry Taylor enlisted in the Union army in June of 1863 and was part of the 86th Ohio Infantry under Colonel Barnabus Burns. The 86th Ohio Infantry mustered out of service at Cleveland, Ohio, on February 10, 1864. Following his service, Henry Taylor attended Miami University and Harvard University. He graduated from Harvard in 1868 and began his career as an attorney in Columbus, Ohio. Taylor served as a city councilman in Columbus, Ohio, from 1883-1887. His final public office was serving as the Judge Advocate General for Ohio, as appointed by Governor George Nash, from 1900 until 1904. It is likely that he wore the frock coat featured in this post on ceremonial occasions while serving in this position.
Photograph of Henry Clay Taylor, 1900-1910. Courtesy of Columbus Metropolitan Library
The coat is made of navy wool with a navy cotton collar and cuffs, a double-breasted front opening with 16 brass buttons arranged in 4 groups of 4 buttons each, all decorated with the seal of the state of Ohio. old epaulets made of brass adorn the shoulders of the coat, with brass coils around the shoulder edge, a silver star on top of each shoulder, and faced with red leather and dark red cotton velveteen. The coat is in remarkable condition, which reinforces the idea that it was only worn for special occasions.
Henry Taylor’s frock coat is a wonderful example of the type of materials manufactured by The M.C. Lilley Company. Judge Advocate General was a not a position that would have been mass produced by the company but is likely a variation of a pattern Lilley used for other uniforms. Heny Taylor would have had this coat made-to-order from his measurements, to ensure a tailored fit. Unfortunately, the trousers that would have accompanied this coat have been lost to time. This is often the case with men’s suits, as pants were worn more frequently than the coat. Taylor’s uniform also includes a bicorn of black fur felt decorated with an oval brass medallion featuring a bald eagle and the state seal of Ohio.
Detail of button depicting state seal
Military-style frock coat and bicorn, 1900-1904. Photo by Kevin Fitzsimons
In addition to this coat, the Ohio History Connection owns numerous pins, buttons, ribbons, caps and uniforms that can be researched through our online catalog found at https://museumcollections.ohiohistory.org/. The Archives and Library also has a number of collections related to M.C. Lilley & Company, including Mitchel Campbell Lilley's papers. These can be found online at https://ohiohistory.on.worldcat.org/discovery. Whatever your interest in Ohio's rich history, the Ohio History Connection can help you learn more!
